How to lower your electricity bill: the short answer
To lower your electricity bill, find which appliances use the most power, cut the waste in those first, and check that your tariff fits how you live. Most homes can save money by changing how heating, cooling and hot water run, not by switching them off.
This guide is a how to. It follows the order that works best. First you learn to read your bill. Then you fix the big users. Then you look at your tariff. Last, you decide which upgrades are worth paying for. You do not need special tools, and you do not need to live in the dark.
Here is a rough guide to where effort pays off most. Actual results depend on your home, climate and local prices.
- Often large: heating, cooling and water heating. Small changes in settings and timing add up here.
- Often medium: laundry, dishwashing, drying clothes, and old fridges or freezers.
- Often small but easy: lighting, standby power and chargers.
- Depends on the contract: your rate, standing charge and time of day pricing.
Start with the large items. Do the small ones if they cost you nothing in comfort.
How do you read your bill and find where the power goes?
You cannot cut what you cannot see. Spend twenty minutes with your latest bill and your meter before you change anything.
Look for these items on the bill.
- Usage in kWh. A kilowatt hour (kWh) is the unit of energy. A 1,000 watt heater running for one hour uses 1 kWh.
- Unit rate. This is the price per kWh. Some bills show more than one rate for different times of day.
- Standing or fixed charge. This is a daily or monthly fee you pay even if you use nothing.
- Taxes, levies and network fees. These vary by country and region. You usually cannot change them.
- Estimated or actual reading. An estimated bill can be too high or too low. Check it against your meter.
Next, learn your daily use. Read your meter at the same time for seven days. Subtract each day from the next. This gives you kWh per day. If you have a smart meter or an app from your supplier, use that instead.
Example only: your use is 12 kWh a day and the unit rate is 0.25 per kWh. That is 3.00 a day for energy, before any standing charge.
Find your base load
Base load is the power your home uses when nobody is actively using anything. To measure it, turn off lights and busy appliances. Leave the fridge on. Then check your meter or app for the current draw in watts. If your base load is 200 watts, that is 4.8 kWh a day, around the clock. A high number points to old appliances, forgotten devices, or something left running.
Measure single appliances
A plug in power meter is a low cost tool that shows the watts and kWh of any plug in device. Test the fridge, the TV setup, the desktop computer and any heater or dehumidifier. For items wired into the wall, such as an electric oven or water heater, read the label for its power rating and estimate the hours of use.
Use this simple formula: watts ÷ 1,000 × hours × unit rate = cost.
Example only: a 2,000 watt heater runs 5 hours. That is 2 × 5 = 10 kWh. At 0.25 per kWh, it costs 2.50.
How can you cut heating and cooling costs and still stay comfortable?
Heating and cooling are often the biggest part of a home bill. The goal is not a colder or hotter house. The goal is to stop paying for comfort that leaks away or that nobody is there to enjoy.
Use your thermostat with a schedule
Set the temperature a little lower when you sleep and when nobody is home. Raise it shortly before you wake or return. In summer, do the reverse with cooling. Changing the setting by one or two degrees is usually barely noticeable, but the system runs less.
Example only: a 2 kW electric heater runs 8 hours a day. That is 16 kWh. If better settings cut the run time to 7 hours, you save 2 kWh a day. At 0.25 per kWh that is 0.50 a day, or about 15 a month.
Stop the leaks first
Warm air escapes through gaps. Check these places on a windy day.
- Gaps around door frames and under doors.
- Window edges and old seals.
- Letterboxes, pet flaps and key holes.
- Loft hatches and attic doors.
- Gaps where pipes and cables enter the walls.
Hold a lit incense stick or a thin strip of tissue near each spot. If the smoke or tissue moves, air is leaking. Foam strips, brush seals and sealant are cheap fixes. Do not seal vents that bring air to a fuel burning appliance, a fireplace or a bathroom fan. Those are there for safety and moisture control.
Use windows and curtains
In winter, open curtains on sunny windows during the day. Close them at dusk. Thick or lined curtains hold in heat. In summer, close curtains or blinds on the sunny side before the room heats up. This costs nothing.
Make cooling more efficient
- Clean or replace air conditioner filters on the schedule in the manual. A blocked filter makes the unit work harder.
- Use a fan with the cooling. Moving air feels cooler, so you can set the air conditioner a little higher.
- Keep the outdoor unit clear of leaves and clutter.
- Close doors to rooms you do not use, so you cool less space.
Heat the person, not the whole house
If you spend most of the day in one room, heat that room. A warm layer, a blanket or slippers can add comfort at no cost. Be careful with small heaters. They use a lot of power for their size. Use them only where and when needed, and follow safety rules.
How do you cut hot water, laundry and kitchen costs?
Hot water, washing and cooking are the next big group. Small habit changes here rarely cost any comfort.
Hot water
- Check the tank setting. If your water is hotter than you need, the tank loses more heat and uses more energy. Do not set it too low. Stored hot water must stay hot enough to limit bacteria growth. Follow the maker's advice and your local health guidance.
- Insulate the tank and pipes. A fitted jacket and pipe foam reduce heat loss. Check that the product suits your tank type.
- Fix drips. A dripping hot tap wastes water and the energy that heated it.
- Shorter showers. Shaving a minute or two off a shower costs you little. A low flow shower head can keep the feel of the shower while using less water. Test one before you rely on it.
Laundry
Most modern detergents clean well at lower temperatures. Wash at 30 or 40 degrees Celsius unless the care label or a stain needs more. Run full loads. Drying is often the costliest part of laundry. Use a line or rack when you can. If you use a dryer, clean the lint filter every time and use the sensor setting rather than a fixed timer.
Example only: a hot wash cycle uses 2 kWh and a cooler cycle uses 0.8 kWh. At 0.25 per kWh, you save 0.30 a load. Four loads a week is about 62 a year.
Kitchen
- Match the pan to the ring size and use a lid.
- Use a microwave, air fryer or kettle for small jobs. They are often cheaper than heating a full oven.
- Do not open the oven door often. Each time, heat escapes.
- Boil only the water you need.
- Run the dishwasher full, and use the eco setting if you are not in a rush.
- Set the fridge to the maker's advised range. Keep the door seal clean and tight. Do not put hot food straight inside.
Standby and idle devices
Many devices draw a small amount of power even when "off". Consoles, set top boxes, printers, chargers and speakers are common examples. Group them on a switched power strip, or use a smart plug, and turn them off at night.
Example only: a device group draws 10 watts all day and night. That is 10 × 24 × 365 ÷ 1,000, or about 88 kWh a year. At 0.25 per kWh, that is around 22 a year.
This is a small saving. Do it only for devices that restart easily. Do not cut power to a router you need, a fridge, a medical device or a security system.
Can a better tariff or different timing lower your bill?
Yes, in some places. Whether it works depends on where you live. Some countries let you choose your supplier. Others have one regulated supplier. Check what is allowed where you are.
Compare the whole cost, not just the unit rate
A low unit rate can hide a high standing charge. Always compare the total for your own usage.
Example only: you use 300 kWh a month.
- Plan A: unit rate 0.24, standing charge 10 a month. Total is 72 + 10 = 82.
- Plan B: unit rate 0.22, standing charge 20 a month. Total is 66 + 20 = 86.
Plan B has the lower unit rate but costs more for this household. If you use much more power, Plan B could win. Use your real numbers.
What to check before you switch
- Is the rate fixed or variable, and for how long?
- Is there an exit fee or early cancellation charge?
- What happens when the fixed term ends? Many plans move to a higher standard rate.
- Are there joining credits that expire, or conditions such as paper free billing?
- Is there a minimum monthly use or a late payment fee?
- Does the plan need a smart meter?
Time of use pricing
Some plans charge less at night or at midday and more in the evening peak. If you can move flexible tasks, you may save. Dishwashers, washing machines, electric car charging and water heating are common ones to shift. If you cannot move your use, a time of use plan can cost more.
Example only: you shift 100 kWh a month from a peak rate of 0.35 to an off peak rate of 0.15. That saves 100 × 0.20 = 20 a month.
Check for errors and support
Compare your meter reading with the bill. Give your supplier regular readings if the bill is estimated. Ask whether you qualify for any local support, rebates or social tariffs. These programs differ by country and change often, so check an official source.
Which upgrades are worth paying for, and which are not?
Upgrades cost money now and save money later. Use the payback formula to decide.
Payback time = cost ÷ yearly saving.
Example only: a draught proofing kit costs 40 and saves 30 a year. Payback is about 1.3 years. A set of efficient bulbs costs 3 each, and each one saves about 23 a year if it replaces a 60 watt bulb used 5 hours a day at 0.25 per kWh. Payback is a few weeks.
Bulbs depend heavily on what you have now. Many homes already use LEDs, so the saving may be zero.
Low cost, usually worth checking
- LED bulbs where you still have older types.
- Draught proofing and window seals.
- Pipe and tank insulation.
- A programmable or smart thermostat, if your system supports it.
- Switched power strips for entertainment and office setups.
Bigger spend, needs a proper quote
- Loft and wall insulation. Can make a big difference, but results depend on your home and what is already installed.
- Efficient appliances. Replace an old fridge or freezer if a power meter shows it uses a lot. Compare the energy label and the price. Do not replace a working appliance only because it is old.
- Heat pumps. Can be efficient, but suitability, cost and savings vary a lot. Get several quotes and ask for estimated running costs for your home.
- Solar panels and batteries. Savings depend on your roof, local sun, export rules and prices. Ask for a written estimate and the assumptions behind it.
Hidden costs to watch
- Installation, scaffolding, permits or electrical work.
- Maintenance, replacement parts and battery life.
- Subscription fees for smart devices or apps.
- Smart devices that draw their own standby power.
- Financing interest, if you pay in instalments.
Ignore claims of guaranteed savings. No one can promise your exact result without your home and your prices.
What mistakes and limits should you know about?
Common mistakes
- Cutting small items and ignoring big ones. Unplugging a phone charger will not offset a badly set heating system.
- Turning heating fully off in cold weather. In very cold homes, this can cause damp, mould or frozen pipes. A low background temperature is safer.
- Using a very high setting to heat faster. Most systems do not warm a room faster this way. They only overshoot.
- Switching tariff without checking the standing charge or exit fees.
- Blocking vents or sealing every gap. Homes need some ventilation for safety and air quality.
- Buying gadgets before measuring. Measure first, then spend.
- Cheap but unsafe fixes. Do not use unapproved heaters, overloaded extension leads or covered heaters.
When this advice does not apply
- Renters. You may not be allowed to change windows, insulation or fixed heating. Focus on settings, curtains, draught strips you can remove, and habits. Ask your landlord about bigger fixes.
- Regulated or fixed price markets. If you cannot choose
Read next
- Fixed vs Variable Electricity Rate: How Each Works and a 5-Step Way to Choose
- How to Read Your Electricity Bill: Line by Line, Plus What You Can Change
- How to Switch Electricity Supplier: 8 Steps, Hidden Costs and Mistakes to Avoid
- Are Time of Use Electricity Plans Worth It? Who Saves Money and Who Does Not